NZ: Day Four: Following The Chief

With our alarms buzzing early, I was glad to find that I had actually slept rather well. We quickly and quietly scrambled into a few layers and met Hazel in reception. The town seemed so still and peaceful as we walked to the lake. The only sound was the glorious morning chorus. Lake Rotorua is the second largest lake on the North Island - we couldn't even see the other side! We watched in awe as the sun illuminated the day, throwing splashes of colour into view. The reflections in the lake were stunning and we stayed to enjoy the show until the slow hum of the town grew and a steady flow of people passed us by. You could spot the locals; they barely even glanced up to enjoy the beauty around them. I could never imagine being so blasé.

Back to the hostel for breakfast, I was coerced into eating my very first hard boiled egg. Can't say I'll be doing it again soon! We had big plans to explore the geothermic activities available in town before our evening at the Tamaki Maori Village so didn't waste anytime getting dressed and ready for the day (I'd been down to the lake in my pjs!). Hazel was going her separate way today and so we bid her farewell and headed out to see what we could find.

Our first stop was the gorgeous Government Gardens that surrounded a very elaborate bath house. It looked bizarrely English - built in Elizabethan Tudor style. We read that the New Zealand government had opened it in 1908 after realising the potential for a world class spa attraction, it now housed a museum. There was so much in the gardens to do and see, but we were drawn to the steaming Rachel's Spring first.

Originally known by the Arawa people as Whangapipiro or Whangapapiro, the pool was renamed after an English cosmetician. I was surprised by how bright the water was, a greeny-blue colour that looked amazing contrasted against the concrete surrounding it. I'm guessing the high walls built around the boiling pool were to deter mad people from immersing themselves. You'd think the sign stating a temperature of 212°F - that's NINETY ONE DEGREES CELSIUS - would do it?!

Excited to safely try some of the benefits that people flocked the world over to enjoy, we debated between the Blue Baths and the Polynesian Spa. The latter was no longer an option after we saw the price list, and we discovered that the former was not geothermal and more suited for families. Luckily, we were given a tourist map of Rotorua and some advice on where to enjoy the free attractions in the gardens.

Within seconds of looking at the map we had both spotted something that caught our eye - a 3d art gallery. This was right up our street! It was a little way out of the town centre, but definitely walkable and we had plenty of time until our evening excursion. We barely saw anyone on our walk, and it didnt take long for us to arrive at the 3D Trick Art Gallery Rotorua. There was only one other group in the gallery and the staff were very happy to see us!

Having no prior knowledge as to what we were in for, it's safe to say we were both very impressed and somewhat surprised on entering the first room. There were floor to ceiling vivid and exciting artworks that depicted New Zealand life, flora, fauna, and the stunning landscapes. And the best thing? It was all immersive - we could be part of the art!! It was almost too much fun; we got more and more inventive as we took a thousand ridiculous photos of each other. Here was our opportunity to ride dolphins, fall from skyscrapers, claim our spot on the moon, scale questionable mountains, stop a moving train... the list goes on! We were so into it that a group that arrived about half an hour after we had actually overtook us! 

After quite literally hours of fun, we had to leave. With no time to walk, we got the bus back to town. We still managed to get off too early so a little walk was required. Fortunately, this took us past one of the only public spas. There were a lot of people, mainly locals it seemed, using the foot spa but we managed to squeeze into a gap and dip our feet. It was rather hot, but soothing all the same.

We made it back to the hostel in time to dry our feet, grab our things and be picked up by Aroha, our lovely driver and guide aboard our bus - affectionatly named Waka Kea. On our way to the Tamaki Maori Village we were taught some simple Maori. Some we had managed to pick up already, including "Kia ora". Some of the others were a bit more difficult, easy ish to pronounce but I could never remember the translation! Next on the agenda, we had to pick a chief for our tribe. George from the USA was the chosen one and lead us in a rousing reprisal of "Row your Boat".

On our arrival, Aroha talked us through what to expect. We were told not to smile or laugh as we were to be honoured with a traditional warrior welcoming. We followed along the path through a gorgeous carved archway to a clearing. A horn sounded, a chant began and Maori warriors adorned in tattoos and carrying spears sailed into view on a boat. So intense and loud! It was so exciting to meet the chief and be officially welcomed to Tamaki with the acceptance ritual. We were then told about the waka (boat) they had arrived on and given some details about what the night would entail.

We both felt very lucky and honoured to be able to visit and be given a tour. We joined with another tribe as we made our way through to learn at five different Whares. First, we were taught the origins of the Maori and their arrival to Aotearoa (New Zealand). The first explorers from Polynesian Hawaiki sailed over on their waka hourua, using the stars and currents as navigational guides. Me and Ben exchanged knowing glances at this point - we were big fans of Moana after all, and it seemed it was factually accurate. We even learned of Maui and his fish hook!

We then moved on to learn about women in the village. We were taught how Poi (balls) were used to improve coordination, upper body strength strength and flexibility, all great skills that helped basket weaving. It was also fun - three volunteers (unfortunately not me) got to practice swinging, throwing and catching the poi. We all then clapped and repeated a chant that went alongside the rhythmic thwacking sounds. Altogether it sounded really cool, and was surprisingly loud.

Our next stop was even more fun, as we were shown stick games that taught the Maori children hand eye coordination. We watched as the warriors sat opposite each other, banging short sticks on the ground, together and then throwing and swapping them. It looked like hard work. It was clear they had years of practice!! One we could have a go at was called Mau Rakau; we first had to stand in a circle with a long stick in front of us. Then as the instructor shouted matau (right) or maui (left) we had to leave our rakau and catch the one on the corresponding side. There was a lot of clattering and apologising as sticks inevitably fell to the ground. I somehow managed to not drop any!!

Ben was very excited about our next stop, he got to learn the hakka! After a very impressive performance, it was so cool (and really quite intimidating) to see it up close, the men of our tribe were taught the moves. I had to laugh, despite his best efforts, Ben was struggling to keep up! Overall though, the final round through for everyone was great - they were all really going for it. And it's all about the energy and the commitment, not the mistakes -  right?

Learning about tattoos was our final Whare. We had seen multiple tattoos on all of the warriors, most covering arms and chests but a fair few around the face - particularly around the lips and chin. They were stunning to look at, especially when you consider the traditonal method for Ta Moko. A sharp tool, usually made of teeth or bone, was used to break the skin. Dye was then tapped in using a flat-edged blade. Pigment was soot from burnt kahikatea or white pine, sometimes mixed with soot from shrubs or kauri gum. The word "tattow" (now tattoo) itself was Captain James Cook's interpretation of the Tahitian "tautau".

On our walk through to the theatre, we were shown the pits dug into the ground where our dinner was being cooked. The Maori hāngī (earth oven) is a centuries-old cooking method perfect for feeding a crowd and bringing a community together. Vegetables and meat were cooked on hot rocks underneath muslin cloths and hot dust. It was interesting to see and I was excited to sample the goods! 

While we waited for the food to cook, we were treated to a showcase of song and dance, sprinkled with humour. At first, the performance was all by voice, I was amazed by how powerful and energetic just a few voices could sound. I got goosebumps. One of the performers then brought out a guitar and the pace slowed for a love story. To end, the ladies brought out their poi and we all joined a rousing chant. Such fun!

Time for dinner - we followed Chief George inside the large dining room and were sat on the Kea Table. We found ourselves opposite a Canadian mother and daughter and had a nice chat about our respective adventures around New Zealand so far. The Chief then called up all the men and they performed the hakka together one last time. It was very intense to have such a large crowd stomping and shouting in unison, gave me quite the appetite. 

We had to wait our turn for the buffet, but did try a cup of Maori tea in the interim. I wasn't too sure on the flavour, but drank it all anyway. We were the last table up to the buffet (typical), but there was still plenty of food to choose from. I piled my plate high with carrots, potatoes, sweet potato, aubergine and chicken. I was most excited to see stuffing and gravy too!! It was delicious, the flavours were incredible and the meat was really tender. We even got second helpings - I simply had to have more stuffing and filled up on whatever veg I could get my hands on. We had not one, but two delicious desserts. First was a steam pudding with custard and then pavlova and peaches. I couldn't believe how much food I had eaten, but it was just too good I had to try it all! No regrets.

After visiting the shop, I bought a magnet as per usual, we were sent on our merry way back to the buses. In great spirits, Aroha had each country represented on board sing a song for everyone's entertainment. England was called on and, before I had even thought of something to sing, Ben's dulcet tones rang out beside me... "I got sunshine on a cloudy day". And we were off, harmonies and all, the best version of 'My Girl' that bus had ever heard. Following the other various ditties from around the world, we sang 'wheels on the bus' and 'she'll be coming round the mountain'. The latter as we drove round and round and round the roundabout. It was a fab end to our visit and kept us all in high spirits.

After being dropped off at the hostel, we quickly dumped our bags and headed back out. We were determined to revisit the foot spa. To our delight, we found it empty! We had the whole pool to ourselves to soak our feet and reflect on the day. Glorious.