Tropical North: Exploring Port Douglas and Cape Tribulation

I spent my first few days in Cairns exploring and enjoying some chill time with the Fraser girls. It was a great place to just relax and enjoy the perfect weather, laying by the lagoon, which is shaped like Queensland (fun fact). I even took part in an aqua zumba class. One day, after wandering around the beautiful botanical gardens, I found myself hiking another mountain. I didn't reach the summit of Mount Whitfield that day, I wasn't prepared and didn't have enough water, but I did return.

I had an awesome day out, exploring Kuranda. There was a tour of the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park in the morning, complete with spear throwing and boomerang throwing. I was better with the spear, apparently I have "weak wrists". We also got to watch a special performance showcasing aboriginal dances and songs, and learn stories from dreamtime. I then took a cable car ride on the Skyrail, up above the rainforest and into Kuranda itself. It was a quaint little town with lots going on: markets, cafes, boutiques, an aviary, a riverside trail, and the famous Kuranda Scenic Railway. This was my ride back to Cairns, and scenic it sure was. We rode through the rainforest and the mountains, passing waterfalls along the way.

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I had decided I wanted to travel a little further up north and experience the Daintree Rainforest. But I didn't just want to go on a tour for a few hours, so I ended up on a shuttle to Port Douglas to stay for a few days. The coastal drive was stunning, but very windy. I don't normally get car sick, but I was feeling a little queasy at times. Luckily, it wasn't a long drive, and we were in Port Douglas in no time. I checked in to the YHA, dumping my bags in my room and grabbing my camera to take exploring.

Who should I see whilst walking through the common area but my friend from the strawberry farm, Tico! I was shocked, I couldn't believe it was him at first. I rushed over, hoping he would actually recognise me, and we had a quick chat. I was on a mission to catch the sunset. I walked out to the beach, but was a little bit late. I caught the tail end, the sky was still painted in gorgeous hues of orange and reddy purple. I walked back via the port, enjoying the view of the multi-million dollar yachts. What a life that must be.

Arriving back at the hostel, I met up with Tico and we cooked up some spaghetti bolognese. Well, that's what he told me we were cooking, but it was with sausages not mince... pretty much the same meal though. I had been carrying around a bag of onions for weeks, so was glad of the opportunity to use a few! We sat and chatted outside while we ate, filling each other in on what we'd been up to. It honestly felt like so long since I'd been waking up at the crack of dawn to pick strawberries for pittance.

I was looking forward to having a proper walk along the beach the next day. Mum and Dad had visited Port Douglas on their Aussie travels back in 2014, so I'd had a few tips on what to do and see. It was time to get some sleep, I had a busy day ahead.

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The free breakfast at the hostel was amazing. Normally it's just toast with a few spreads, but here I helped myself to muesli, yoghurt, apple juice, fruit toast, and a cuppa. And the best thing, someone else did the washing up! The weather was perfect, I slathered on my suncream and filled up my water bottle - ready for the day.

The hostel was a short walk to the first resort ever built in Port Douglas, The Mirage, and the alleyway alongside this brought me out on to Four Mile Beach. I headed straight for the lookout, eager to get an bird's eye view. There was a fair few stairs, but they didn't bother me in the slightest. I was straight up, and soon admiring the stunning coastline from above. It was a tropical paradise, with the golden beach lined with palm trees, and the water a bright turquoise.

From there, it was straight down to the soft sand. With my flip flops in my hand, and my toes making splashes in the water, I was in true holiday mode. I walked the whole way along the beach, which turns out isn't four miles at all. Whoever named it can't have been too sharp on distances. I only left the beach to nip to the toilet. After walking back along in the other direction, I swapped sand for tarmac to check out the high street.

 

It was quite an impressive collection of shops. Being a town full of high end resorts, a lot of them were so ridiculously expensive they didn't even have price tags on things. I did find a few cute little shops amongst them, one selling Hawaiian dad shirts. I really wanted one, but they weren't cheap and I really couldn't justify it. I did need some suncream though, buying some from the pharmacy that came with a free power bank. I then nipped into the pub for an ice cold drink.

The next stop was Anzac Park to soak up some history and enjoy the view. It was lovely to see all sorts of people enjoying the sunshine, lazing in the park amongst the palm trees and on the grass. There was one group of guys who had the genius idea of bringing a hammock. They had slung it between two trees and probably had the best view of the ocean out of all of us.

From here, I walked through the residential area to find the old lighthouse. I'd read about it on a sign but wasn't 100% sure whereabouts it was. Luckily, I spotted a flash of white poking out behind the houses. There was a slim path running between streets that took me to the foot of the lighthouse. It wasn't in use anymore, and hadn't been for years, but it still looked very pretty. And I had a great view of the sparkling ocean from here.

My walk back along the port was much better than before, it looked even more lush in the daylight. Back at the hostel, I still had an hour or two of daylight. After booking a tour up to Cape Tribulation for the next day, I plonked myself on one of the loungers by the pool and read for a while.

I had seen earlier at the pub that it was film night, and they were showing Monsters Inc. Obviously, I just had to watch. I got there just in time, and even got one of the tables at the front. Once it was over, I walked back to pack my bag and get a good night sleep.

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I enjoyed another fantastic breakfast before leaving my rucksack with reception and checking out. There were quite a few of us waiting outside for various tours, all of which seemed to be running late. I was on the cusp of calling and questioning whether or not I'd been forgotten when the Active Tropics tour bus appeared. The guide did tell me his name, but I was too distracted by his top hat to listen. The bus was full, I squeezed in next to another girl and we were off on our way.

Mossman Gorge was our first stop of the day and we were officially welcomed to the land with a traditional Smoke Ceremony. We all had to walk clockwise around a smoking fire, to cleanse ourselves and have a familiar smell for the ancestors. We were also shown shields, sticks, ocres, and bush shampoo. It's amazing to see the many uses of things in nature. We then queued for the shuttle down to the river. I felt sorry for the other passengers when twenty odd backpackers clambered on board. Luckily, it was only a short ride down to the carpark where we would meet the trail.

We only had about thirty minutes, and lots of lookouts to explore. I walked all the way along the boardwalk to the final lookout and made my way back along. It was a beautiful place, with clear water revealing mossy boulders and a sandy bottom. From the lookout and the suspension bridge, I could really appreciate the density of the rainforest. You could see the outermost trees and foliage, but just darkness beyond. I walked down to see the small beach and pool, I didn't go in the water as hadn't bought my towel. Judging by the noises everyone was making it was a little bit chilly.

Back to the carpark and on the bus, Mr Tophat drove us through the Daintree to  Mossman River. He dropped us here for our boat cruise, he had to drive further up to be able to cross the huge body of water. We were met with a cup of local tea that we could take on to the boat with us. I settled into a seat along the edge of the boat, ready to be on croc watch. The water was a murky brown, perfect for them to hide in and stalk their helpless prey. As it was, we saw two smaller crocodiles (one female and a male juvenile) lounging on the banks of the river doing nothing. Further up we then met the boss of the water, Scarface. He was a lot larger, and we watched as he moved from the land into the river, out of sight.

We were met on the other bank and began our drive to Cape Tribulation. Here is the closest spot of land to the Great Barrier Reef, though still a good few kilometres away. Where the rainforest meets the reef, I was excited to check in and check out the surroundings. There were six of us stopping the night at the Beach House, the others were heading back to Cairns. Four of us were in Room 5, and as I got there first I nabbed the single bed. I packed a few things in a bag, suncreamed up and headed to the beach.

I plonked myself on the sand, rainforest behind me and sea lapping at my feet. A perfect spot for lunch, which was crackers and dip. With my belly full, I was up for a good walk. I headed right, walking all the way along the sand. There was hardly anyone around, it was so quiet and peaceful. I got so carried away just soaking in the surroundings and letting my mind drift, before I knew it I was halfway to other end of the beach. I knew there was another backpackers there somewhere, so decided to keep going.

The walk was a little longer than I had anticipated, luckily I found a shop by the hostel and could treat myself to a magnum. I rested for a while and then set off on my merry way back to my own hostel. I decided to walk most of the way on the road, I figured it would be quicker. It was, and I made it in back in time to watch the sunset from our own little beach area. It truly was stunning, a perfect end to the day.

I finished off my crackers and read for a while, surprised to find everyone asleep when I returned to the room. It wasn't that late, it was very unusual for me to be last to bed. I crept in and climbed into bed, setting my alarm for an exciting morning.

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I was awake way before my alarm, I quietly stripped the bed and packed my bag. Once I had checked out, I wandered back to the beach to enjoy a sunrise walk. It was a beautiful morning, with a thin layer of cloud framing the rising sun. I found a friend as I wandered along the shoreline. A random dog followed me everywhere like a shadow. I had no idea where he came from, but he was determined for us to play catch. I threw a few sticks but refused to throw a coconut he'd found - I couldn't even lift it!

At 8am Cape Trib Horse Rides picked me and three other girls up. I was going for my first ever horse ride. I figured that, as I've ridden camels and elephants in the past, it was about time I rode a horse. We were driven to the stables and met our guide for the day. He was a real cowboy, with the boots and leather vest. He showed us to the horses and we signed our lives away. We then had to get kitted out, I was told I "have a small head." And there was me thinking it was rather large.

None of us had any experience with horses, and didn't really know how to even get on. Luckily, we were given a demonstration and coached through each step. I was the last to mount my horse, I would be riding Topaz for the morning. He was a lot taller than I had envisaged, and it seemed a long way to the ground. I tucked my bumbag and my water into the saddle-bag and held on to the reins. We were told how to use them, but we didn't have to worry too much as the horses were used to the route.

We set off at a walk first, across the paddock and over the road into the rainforest. I was most impressed that all the horses just knew where to go, which way was best along the path. We were about fourth in line, and I was rather enjoying myself. It was a little uncomfortable, but it was great to get a different perspective on the trees around us. When we reached a grass clearing, we were asked "do you wanna go faster?". Obviously, we all obliged and were split into two groups to attempt a trot. We were in the second group, so I could watch the others first. It looked a little bumpy. Then it was our turn, with Topaz leading the pack. Oh my, it was the weirdest sensation ever. I was being jumbled around and could do nothing but hold on. Not my favourite method of transport so far.

I was relieved when we slowed to a walk, moving out of the clearing back into the forest. As we passed an inlet, we noticed a croc sunbathing. It's scary how close they get to the ocean, and the beach. This was where we came out, and the horses were completely unfazed by the change in texture under hoof. We walked in a big loop along the sand, having lots of pictures taken. It was a very surreal experience, being so close to the sand and sea but not dipping in a toe. We then ventured through the water, having to keep them looking up and moving forward. Topaz messed about, pawing at water and splashing me everywhere.

We walked back across the beach to the path through the rainforest. When we reached the clearing, I was handed a stick. We were going to canter and apparently Topaz would need the encouragement. I didn't even touch him and he was raring to go, I had to hold him back to wait our turn. Oh my god. We were going so fast I couldn't grip anything, my bumbag fell out of the saddle bag and I'm pretty sure my brain wobbled! It was insane. I preferred the cantering to trotting - it felt a lot smoother. We slowed to a walk and were lead back to the stables. It was fun getting off, I couldn't feel my legs.

Back to the hostel, I thanked the guys for an awesome morning and bid them farewell. I grabbed my lunch from the kitchen and took it down to the beach. It was a glorious day, and I could relax on the sand while I waited for the tour group. There were a fair few of us hanging around reception at about two. Turns out a lot of them were checking in, there weren't as many on the bus.

We had a different guide on our return to Port Douglas, he was very passionate about the mangroves. We walked along the boardwalk and he told us about the many ways the plants have adapted to thrive and survive in the saltwater. It is rather interesting to hear how the mangroves create and support a habitat for frogs, fishes and other marine life. The difference between the rainforest and the mangrove forest was more obvious as we returned to the bus.

On the way to the hostel we stopped again at a lookout, giving a panoramic view across the agricultural land below. Our guide told us a little of the history of the Daintree and how the area is protected. It was getting a little bit chilly of an evening and we were all ready to get back on the bus. We had to stand for an awkwardly long amount of time until he opened the door. The coastal drive back to Port Douglas was as beautiful as before, with the addition of the setting sun. The ocean glowed and sparkled in the golden rays.

I checked back into the hostel, glad to have a bigger room. I had a shower and reorganised my belongings, ready for bed and one last day of exploring.

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I had a mini lay in, didn't want to miss breakfast, and checked myself out. The shuttle back to Cairns wasn't leaving until 5ish so I still had a full day. I spent the morning reading by the pool, soaking in the sunshine. I had a stroll along the beach and took myself back up to the lookout. I couldn't get over just how beautiful it was, I felt like I'd fallen into a postcard. You could understand why it was now an established area for high end resorts. The Mirage was really onto something!

I walked through town, exploring all of the side streets and nooks and crannies. I popped to Cayman Villas too, just to see where Mum and Dad, Tracy and Bob had stayed. I couldn't very well just waltz in but I looked from the outside. Very nice. I found the best frozen yoghurt for a late lunch. They didn't do it by weight, just cup size - so I could pile as much fruit (read sweets) as I liked on my froyo. I sat on a bench in the sunshine, people watching and demolishing my treat.

It was soon time to head back to the hostel and gather my things. The shuttle back was running on time, it was the Tophat guy from before! He only had four people on his tour this time, and there was me and two others tagging along on the last stretch to Cairns. We stopped off at Anzac Park en route to watch the sunset. Perfect. I had had an awesome time exploring Tropical North Queensland and the many unique environments.